Southern Alaska Coast

  • Finding Light in Glacier Bay National Park

    Some landscapes become part of our imagination through comparison. Glacier Bay National Park entered mine through Kenai Fjords — the Alaska park where a spontaneous boat tour became one of the most memorable experiences of my 50 at 60 journey. The tidewater glaciers calving into the fjord. The puffins on the sea stacks. The humpback whales surfacing close enough to feel the water move. If Kenai Fjords could produce all of that from a last-minute ticket at the Seward harbor, what might Glacier Bay — larger, more remote, more deliberately planned — produce with proper intention and preparation?

  • Finding Light in Kenai Fjords National Park

    I was in the early days of my 50 at 60 journey — Alaska was state number two — and I found myself driving south from Anchorage toward the coastal town of Seward on a morning with no fixed agenda. Seward sits at the head of Resurrection Bay, a narrow fjord cutting into the Kenai Peninsula, and when I arrived I saw a sign for a boat tour departing that afternoon. I booked it on the spot. No research, no planning, no particular expectation beyond getting out on the water.

  • Chasing Light in Denali National Park

    When planning a visit to America’s national parks, some destinations carry a weight that the others do not. Denali is one of those. The highest peak in North America — 20,310 feet of granite and ice rising from the Alaska Range — has a presence that is felt before it is seen, a scale that the photographs suggest but cannot fully communicate, and a name that carries its own history.